Hi I’m Samantha from www.instagram.com/purplesewingcloud, I'm very honoured that the Friday pattern company team have asked me to write a blog post on my quilted jacket and how I made it using the Ilford Jacket Pattern.
This project had been living in my brain for a long time. It started in spring with my browsing the internet and seeing jackets that people had made from quilts they had cut up, I couldn’t cut up someone’s work like that so I decided I’d create the quilted patchwork specifically for the jacket. It was a daunting process as I’d never done any quilting or patchwork before. I started by creating my design and then seeking some expert help and had some quilting lessons. I don’t think you need quilting lessons to make this, there’s loads of great blogs for beginner quilters and learning about patchwork.
Once I’d sketched up my design I looked for patterns that would suit it, I found the Ilford with its straight simple lines and loads of choice to make changes perfect. Then it was the fun part… choosing which fabrics I’d like to use, I really wanted to use scraps from some of my other projects. I choose some linen, denim and cotton scraps then some other quilting cottons purchased specifically to go with the scraps I was using.
I had to adjust the pattern slightly as I used binding on all the edges, the first adjustment is the button placket, normally this part of the pattern is folded under so I removed this part. I adjusted the length of the jacket body and sleeves as this is hemmed and I would be adding binding. After I started sewing up the garment I also realised I should of taken the seam allowance from the neck line too, I was able to make this adjustment after trying on the garment before it was finished but I recommend taking out seam allowance at the beginning.
Once I’d done all my adjustments to the pattern I drew all the patchwork and coloured them so I could see where all the colours would be and sizes of my squares. On the main body of the coat the squares are 3’ inches, the sleeves are 2’ and the pockets are 1’. I think this gives the coat extra detail and interest.
In total I cut out over 600 squares for the jacket, this is a long process but its worth taking your time to get the squares lined up accurately. I made the patchwork around 1’ inch bigger on all the seams, this is because once it’s quilted it will shrink and change shape slightly, the extra will be trimmed off once accurately to the pattern pieces.
Then I started the process of sewing them all together, I though this would take a couple of days but I greatly under estimated the timings and it took my a couple of weeks doing a couple of hours a day, I have some chronic health conditions and to ensure I wont get too tired I try and limit my sewing to a hour at a time to prevent myself from getting exhausted.
Once all the squares were sewn up it was time to quilt all the pieces. I used a cotton batting and then quilting cotton on the inside. On the lining of the cuffs I also used some liberty print lawn, I like to wear the sleeves rolled up a little bit and this gives a pop of the extra print.
Then I trimmed everything to the shape of the pattern pieces and started sewing it all together. As I sewed them together I also used cotton binding on the seams inside for a clean finish.
Then I attached denim single bias all around the edges of the coat and around the edges of the pockets and hand finished it. I stitched on the pockets and the collar.
Over the summer I made a dress with a linen fabric I’d lusted after for several months, I loved the fabric so much I kept every scrap and every scrap was used in this jacket. Squares in the patchwork, a custom label, hanging hook and a secret snack pocket on the inside of the jacket.
I'm so happy with this jacket, it was made with love and brings me so much happiness whenever I wear it.
There’s a section of highlights on my instagram page showing the make in lots of depth if you’d like to see more, please say ‘hi’ to me too, I love making new friends in the sewing community.
Thanks for reading and I hope this has given you some inspiration and a guide into making your own quilted patchwork ilford jacket.
Happy sewing, Samantha xx
Find Samantha over on Instagram here.