Pauline @sewuthinkucan here, fresh off the #SewAJumpsuitChallenge I co-hosted last month with FPC as one of the sponsors. I am delighted to show you not just one, but three easy hacks for the Avenir Jumpsuit. I couldn't resist sharing multiple options for hacking this beautiful jumpsuit. Although I implemented all three hacks, you’re not required to do the same. Feel free to choose and make whichever hack you prefer.
Here are three hacks to try:
- Romper hack, is perfect for the approaching summer season and is a must-have summer item.
- Scoop neck hack for some neckline drama.
- Short ruffle and puff sleeve hack because statement sleeves are just plain fun.
- Avenir pattern
- Fabric of your choice, light to medium weight(I used a gingham seersucker)
- Straight ruler
- Curve ruler
- Bias tape or bias tape maker if you choose self-fabric bias.
- Paper for pattern mods
- 0.5-inch wide elastic for the sleeves
Before you start, make sure you print your size and make your usual pattern modifications before hacking. For reference, I’m 1.70m/5’7 tall, I cut a size L, I shortened the bodice, and the pants rise by one inch.
Let's start with the romper hack since it's the simplest. To begin, decide on your preferred length for the romper. Mine measures 17.5 inches (44.45 cm) from the waist to the side seam, including a 1.5-inch (3.81 cm) hem allowance.
Scoop neck hack
Moving on to the scoop neck modification, the sleeves are the only parts with elastic while the bodice neckline is gathered. To finish the entire neckline, I used a 1.5-inch (3.81 cm) wide bias tape and created openings on each side of the sleeves to insert the elastic. Despite having only the sleeves with elastic, I had no issues pulling the jumpsuit over my hips.
On the front bodice pattern piece, place a mark 3 inches (7.62 cm) down from the top on the center edge. Then, trace a 2-inch (5.08 cm) straight line parallel to the top neckline starting from that mark.
Using a curve ruler draw a line from the top sleeve edge down to the 2-inch (5.08 cm) straight line. Cut your new neckline.
Do the same steps for the back bodice, but keep in mind that the back neckline should be higher than the front. Therefore, make the marking 2 inches (5.08 cm) down from the top instead of 3 (7.62 cm).
To achieve a fuller gathered effect, it's time to widen the neckline. Attach some paper to the center front and back bodices and add 1.5 inches (3.81 cm) from the top to the bottom of the bodice.
Cut and set aside.
The last hack is the ruffle and puff sleeve hack.
To create a lower puff sleeve, start by adjusting the sleeve pattern to your preferred length. Next, measure 10 inches from the bottom sleeve pattern and mark dots from one side to the other. Join the dots with a horizontal line, then cut the sleeve along the line to divide it into two pieces.
Fold the upper sleeve piece in half and increase the center edge by 3 inches (7.62 cm) before cutting it on the fold. Measure the bottom width of the upper sleeve piece and multiply it by 1.5 to get the width of the lower sleeve piece.
Add the difference between the resulting figure and the bottom width to the center edge of the bottom sleeve pattern piece and cut on the fold.
As an illustration, suppose the bottom width of the upper sleeve measures 10 inches (25.4 cm). If you multiply 10 (25.4 cm) by 1.5, the resulting figure is 15 inches (38.1 cm). Subtracting 10 (25.4 cm) from 15 (38.1 cm) yields 5 inches (12.7 cm). You can then add 5 inches (12.7 cm) to the lower sleeves.
Prepare your self-fabric bias tape if that’s what you chose to do. Time to cut the fabric.
How to sew the scoop neckline.
To create an even gather, sew two rows of gathering stitches on the front and back bodices, each 2 inches (5.08 cm) away from the edges. Add a third row of gathering stitches 0.5 inches (1.27 cm) from the second row. This will make it easier to topstitch the bias tape to the neckline.
Next, pull the first two stitches to gather the fabric until the front neckline measures 10 inches (25.4 cm) and the back measures 12 inches (30.48 cm).
Then, follow steps 1, 2, 3 of the pattern sewing instructions. Remember for now you’re working with the upper sleeve only. You will add the gathered ruffle later.
Pin and sew the bias tape to the neckline right sides together. Understitch on the bias tape side so the tape rolls to the back easily.
It's time to pull the third row of gathering stitches for topstitching the bias tape and avoid crushing the gathers while doing so (see pic below).
When topstitching the bias tape, leave openings to insert elastic into the sleeve casings. To give you an idea, I cut two 10-inch (25.4 cm) pieces of 0.5-inch (1.27 cm) wide elastic and adjusted them according to my liking.
How to sew the gathered ruffle sleeves
Align the right sides together, use pins to secure the sleeves at the side seams, and stitch them. Finish the seam edges. Next, sew two lines of gathering stitches on the upper edge of the lower sleeve. Gather the fabric by pulling on the threads, and attach the lower sleeve to the upper sleeve piece while evenly redistributing the gathers. Turn the end of your sleeves under 3/8”[1 cm] and press. Turn it under another 3/4”[1.9 cm] and press/pin it in place. Stitch around sleeve opening leaving a 2”[5 cm] opening.
Cut two pieces of elastic longer than the suggested one in the instructions. Feed your sleeve hem elastic through the casing. Pull it through, stitch it into a loop, and close up your opening. Repeat on the other side.
One more thing I did was to topstitch the waist elastic in the middle to give it a ruched look.
There you have it. I hope you will try one or more of these hacks.
As always, thanks FPC for having me as a guest once again. It’s truly been a pleasure.
Shop the Avenir Pattern here
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