How to Add a Lining to the Ilford Jacket


Ever since the Ilford Jacket pattern dropped the #1 question we get is if it is possible to add a lining. We are here to tell you that it is, and it is easy! Adding a lining to the boxy sleeved version is a breeze. Getting a placket onto the sleeve adds a bit of a challenge but is totally doable. Make sure you have pre-washed your main fabric and lining before sewing them together, any shrinkage will cause your finished jacket to hang weird. Also, if you are using thick fabrics or quilting the lining (or exterior), consider sizing up your sleeves. Because of how the sleeves are sewn in flat, it is easy to size them up and keep the front and back pieces your original size. 

Due to time constraints we didn't have time to take photos for this post. Feel free to leave questions in the comments below.

You can shop the Ilford Jacket PDF pattern here, and the printed pattern here

Lining an Ilford with a Boxy Sleeve:

  • Cut 2 fronts, 1 back on fold, and 2 sleeve pieces from your lining fabric.
  • On your front pieces, trim away 2" along the center front. This is where the placket folds over itself and you don't need extra lining folded up in there. 
  • Repeat steps 4-6 in the instructions with your lining pieces. 
  • Flip your lining inside out and stick it into the outer fabric of your Ilford. Pull the sleeves down so the sleeve hems match, line up the neckline so that they match up. Baste around the neckline 1/4" from the edge to hold your pieces together. 
  • Continue to step 7-9 and attach the collar sewing through the lining and main fabric. 
  • In step 10, when you fold your placket over, make sure your lining is tucked into it. 
  • When you hem your sleeves and jacket, sew the lining and main fabric as if they are one. If you are worried about extra bulk, you can trim away 3/4" from the hems of the lining. 

Lining an Ilford with a Placketed Sleeve:

  • Don't sew your placket to your sleeve in step 1. It will need to be sewn in later.
  • Cut your 2 fronts, 1 back on fold, and 2 sleeve pieces from your lining.
  • On your front pieces, trim away 2" along the center front. This is where the placket folds over itself and you don't need extra lining folded up in there.
  • Repeat steps 4-6 in the instructions with your lining pieces. 
  • Flip your lining inside out and stick it into the outer fabric of your Ilford. Pull the sleeves down so the sleeve hems match, line up the neckline so that they match up. Baste around the neckline 1/4" from the edge to hold your pieces together. 
  • Continue to step 7-9 and attach the collar sewing through the lining and main fabric. 
  • In step 10, when you fold your placket over, make sure your lining is tucked into it. 
  • After step 10, flip your jacket inside out and sew your placket in. Follow the instructions in step 1. You will sew your lining and main fabric as if they are one fabric. In the illustrations where it says wrong side of fabric that will mean the lining side, and right side of fabric will mean the main fabric side. 
  • Continue to step 11 and attach cuff to hem of sleeve sewing through both the lining and main fabric. 
  • When you hem your jacket, sew the lining and main fabric as if they are one. If you are worried about extra bulk, you can trim away 3/4" from the hem of the lining. 

We hope that this post is helpful and that you have as much fun sewing your Ilford as you do wearing it! 

Happy sewing!


5 comments


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  • Ashley Mathai

    was the inner sleeve lined with the same fabric as the outer? With the sleeves turned up i don’t see the lining. and how far apart were your quilt lines? thank you!


  • Ashley

    This jacket with the lining and quilting would be perfect for a sew-along! i’m too scared to try this jacket on my own!


  • Sarah

    I am planning on making my jacket out of fairly heavy canvas. I want to line it. I feel like it won’t be warm enough if I just line it with flannel, so I’m considering quilting the flannel onto cotton batting. Good idea? Bad idea? Also, if I do this I should only upsize the sleeves? I’m a bit nervous about the sizing.


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