Twin Lakes Two Piece Fitting

This page contains tutorials on common fit adjustments for the Twin Lakes Two Piece pattern. We will be covering:

Raising the Neckline
Doing an FBA on the Top
Increase Rise on the Bottoms
Increase Coverage on the Bottoms
Tips for Adding More Support

Adding Elastic to the Bottoms
Adding Power Mesh
Adding Cups
Increasing the Width of Top Waistband

Raising the Neckline:

To raise the neckline you can re draw the neckline curve higher up. Keep in mind that if the neckline length changes significantly you will need to shorten Top Front Finishing Band (C) as well.

Doing a Full Bust Adjustment:

On Top Front (A), draw the following lines with a straight edge ruler from the middle of your dart at side seam to about an inch past the end of the dart. This will be your apex point.
Draw the following lines:

Line #1: From your apex straight down to the hem
Line #2: From your apex out to your armscye, about ⅓ of the way from under arm seam

Next, cut line #1 from the hem to (not through) your armscye.
Then, cut along the center of your dart to (not through) your apex point.
Gently hinge the bottom left piece of your pattern until you have added the desired amount of fullness between the left and right sides of line #1 (i.e. if you have a C cup bra size, you would spread your pattern piece by ½”, a D cup would spread 1”, and so on.)
Tape a scrap of paper in place behind your new openings.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your dart point. Your hem will be a bit lower, square the hemline off from this new lowered point.
You will need to adjust Top Front Lower Band (F) as well to be as wide as your new Top Front (A) piece.

Increasing the Rise on the Bottoms:

Draw a straight line horizontally from the middle of your sideseams.
Slash across the line.
Slide the lower half of your bottoms down the desired length making sure to keep your pieces even with one another.
Tape a scrap of paper in place behind your new openings.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your front pattern.
Repeat these steps with your Bottoms Front (H) and Bottoms Back (I) pieces.
If you raise the bottoms significantly you might need to narrow the waist and adjust the Waist Finishing Band (K) piece.

Increasing the Coverage on the Bottoms:
If you want to add a bit more booty coverage you can redraw the leg openings on Bottoms Back (I). Keep in mind that if you change the curve significantly you are going to need to lengthen Leg Finishing Band (J) a bit.

ADDING MORE SUPPORT TO THE TWIN LAKES TWO PIECE:

Adding Elastic to the Bottoms: If you want to add elastic to your bottoms you will need to purchase extra 3/8"[1cm] wide elastic. When you sew the finishing bands to the bottoms you will hold the elastic on top of your finishing band and sew like normal. You do not need to pull on the elastic to create extra tension.

Adding Power Mesh: Power mesh is sewn between lining and main fabric layers to lend added support. If you are adding power mesh to the top or bottoms you will need to add a lining as well. You can baste the power mesh to the wrong side of the main fabric before you join it to the lining and sew like normal.

Adding Cups: If you want to add soft foam cups you will need to add a lining. You can either slip them in before you baste your lining to your front or sew them to the wrong side of your lining piece and then join the lining to the main fabric.

Increasing the Width of Top Waistband:The waistband on the top has 1/2" wide elastic in it. If you want wider elastic there you will need to increase the width of Top Front Lower Band (F) and Top Back Lower Band (G). For example, if you want to use 1" wide elastic you will add 1" to the width of the bands. Once the bands are widened the sewing process is the same.