Pogonip Pullover Fitting

The Pogonip is a loose fitting pullover jacket. The pattern was drafted using sample measurements for a height of 5’6” [168 cm] and a B/C-cup bra size. We always recommend sewing a toile to get the fit perfect before cutting into your precious fabric.

Below are some common fit adjustments and how to do them!

Full Bust Adjustment

The Pogonip Pullover is drafted using sample measurements for a B/C cup bra but it is suitable for many cup sizes. If you have more than a 4-5” difference between upper and full bust you may want to do a full bust adjustment. Below is an easy method for performing a full bust adjustment:

On Upper Front (A), starting at the bottom hem cut vertically through to the shoulder without cutting all the way through the seam.
Spread the two halves of your pattern piece to add the desired ease.
Tape a scrap of paper in place behind your new opening.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your pattern.

Cut through Lower Front (B) in the same spot that you did Upper Front (A). You can cut through from the top of your pattern to the bottom.
Spread the two halves of your pattern the same amount that you had for Upper Front (A).
Tape a scrap of paper in place behind your new opening.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your pattern.

Lengthen or Shorten the Pullover

To lengthen or shorten your pullover you will be adjusting from Upper Front (A) or Lower Front (B) depending on where you want to add length. These pieces do not have lengthen/shorten lines because where you will add/subtract length depends on where you most need it in your bodice. If you want to add or subtract length in the chest, adjust Upper Front (A). If you want to add or subtract length in the stomach/lower torso, adjust Lower Front (B). You can adjust the length of your pullover by cutting a line perpendicular to the center back anywhere along the body of the piece.

Make sure that you are adding or subtracting length from the same spot on both Upper Front (A) and Back (C) pieces. You can do this by laying your pattern pieces on top of one another and marking the spot on both pieces.

To lengthen from Upper Front (A):

Extend the side and Center Front seam on Upper Front (A).
Mark Back (C) at the original place in which Upper front (A) hit along the side seam.
Draw a horizontal line across Back (C), then cut along the line you drew.
Spread the upper and lower part of your pattern pieces to add the same length as added to Upper Front (A).
Tape a scrap of paper in place behind your new opening.
Smooth out the seam edges, retrace your pattern piece, and move your bottom pocket marking up.

To Shorten from Upper Front (A):

If you are removing length from the Upper Front (A), be sure not to remove too much as this will affect your armsyce.

Measure up the desired amount on the side and Center Front seam of Upper Front (A), and trim the pattern piece.
Mark Back (C) at the original place in which Upper front (A) hit along the side seam.
Draw a horizontal line across Back (C), then cut along the line you drew.
Overlap your pattern pieces to remove the same length as subtracted from Upper Front (A).
Tape your overlapped pattern pieces together.
Smooth out the seam edges, retrace your pattern piece, and move your bottom pocket marking down.

If you want to add or remove length from the Lower Front (B), you can do this by simply adding/ subtracting length from the bottom edge of Lower Front (B).

If you are removing length from the Lower Front (B), be sure not to remove too much as this might affect Welt Pocket (G).
If you are adding/ subtracting length from Lower Front (B), you will also need to make sure that you add/ subtract the same amount to Front Pocket Bag (I) and Back Pocket Bag (H) along the bottom edge.

To lengthen from Lower Front (B):

Extend the side and Center Front seam on Lower Front (B).
Extend the side and Center Back seam on Back (C) by the same amount.
Extend the bottom hem edges of Front Pocket Bag (I) and Back Pocket Bag (H) by the same amount.

To Shorten from Lower Front (B):

Measure up the desired amount on the side and Center Front seam on Lower Front (B).
Measure up the side and Center Back seam on Back (C) by the same amount.
Measure up the bottom hem edges of Front Pocket Bag (I) and Back Pocket Bag (H) by the same amount.
Trim all of your pattern pieces.