Eddy Cardigan Blazer Fit Adjustments

The Eddy has a relaxed fit without being oversized. There is shaping through the torso but still enough ease to wear a layer underneath. The hem is designed to hit just below your butt. We recommend sewing a toile to make sure the fit is right for you before cutting into your nice fabric. 

The Eddy Cardigan Blazer was drafted using sample measurements for a B bra cup and for a height of 5’6”[168cm]. 

Below are some common fit adjustments and how to do them.

Small Shoulder Adjustment: 

  • Draw a line diagonally from mid shoulder to the middle of the armscye. 

  • Slash from the shoulder toward the armscye without cutting through it. 

  • Draw another line diagonally from the middle of your new slash mark to your armscye. Slash along this line without cutting through the armscye edge. 

  • Overlap pieces on the shoulder edge to remove the desired amount of length. Tape pieces in place and smooth out shoulder seam. 

  • Repeat on front, back, and lining pieces.

Full Bust Adjustment:

There are many ways to do a full bust adjustment. The method illustrated below is called the pivot and slide method. This is one of the easier methods for this type of pattern piece.

  • Trace Front (A) onto a large piece of paper. Include all markings in your tracing. Tracing is blue in the illustrations below.

  • Cut out your pattern piece and line it up over your tracing. Cut out pattern piece is black in the illustrations below.

  • Keeping your tracing and pattern piece aligned where the shoulder seam meets the neck, rotate your pattern piece outward adding the desired amount of additional ease at the bust point (the bust point is roughly an inch or two above the dart on the front of your jacket). The purple line in the illustration shows where we are aiming to add ease. 

  • Tape your piece in place. Trace the shoulder, armscye, sideseam, and hem of your pattern piece. Remove the piece so that you have the center front, hem, and markings from your original tracing. This blend of pieces is your new pattern piece. 

  • If you want to expand your dart to remove some of the ease that was added to the waist because of the FBA, you can draw lines outward from the center of the dart. Make sure your dart remains symmetrical. Redraw dart legs. 

You will need to make this adjustment to your Front Facing (E) and Front Lining (G) pieces as well. To do this, draw a seam line (3/8" from the edge) along the seam where Front Facing (E) and Front Lining (G) are joined together. Tape them together overlapping the seam allowance so that they are aligned on the seam line. Repeat the FBA steps above. Cut the two pieces apart and add the seam allowance back in. 

Blending Between Sizes:

Designed with intention

We design our patterns to be versatile and fun to sew, the kind of patterns you want to make again and again.

Thoroughly tested

Our patterns go through a rigorous testing process. We have a talented team of real home sewists who contribute feedback on fit, ease of instruction, and cuteness.

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