Butano Button Up Fitting

The Butano has a relaxed fit without being oversized. It has plenty of ease through the body and generous length but isn’t slouchy through the shoulders and sleeves. The back hem is designed to hit mid butt. The Butano Button Up was drafted using sample measurements for a B bra cup and for a height of 5’6”[168cm].

Below are some common fit adjustments and how to do them!

Full Bust Adjustment

The Butano Button Up is drafted using sample measurements for a B cup bra. We do test it on a variety of cup sizes but if your bust size is outside of this range, you may want to do a full or small bust adjustment. Below is a tried-and-true method for performing a full bust adjustment:

On Front (A), draw the following lines with a straight edge ruler

Line #1: From your apex up through the shoulder point and down through the hem
Line #2: From your apex out to your armscye, about ⅓ of the way from under arm seam
Line #3: Through the middle of your bust dart to the apex
Line #4: From the CF to line #1, anywhere below your dart point

Next, cut line #1 from the bodice hem to (not through) your armscye.
Then, cut along the center of your dart to (not through) your apex point.
Gently hinge the bottom left piece of your pattern until you have added the desired amount of fullness between the left and right sides of line #1 (i.e. if you have a C cup bra size, you would spread your pattern piece by ½”, a D cup would spread 1”, and so on.)
Finally, cut along line #4 and move that little bodice piece down until the hem of your bodice is even once again.
Tape a scrap of paper in place behind your new openings.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your dart point.

And a small bust adjustment:

On Front (A), draw the following lines with a straight edge ruler

Line #1: From your apex up through the shoulder point and down through the hem
Line #2: From your apex out to your armscye, about ⅓ of the way from under arm seam
Line #3: Through the middle of your bust dart to the apex
Line #4: From the CF to line #1, anywhere below your dart point

Next, cut line #1 from the bodice hem to (not through) your armscye.
Then, cut along the center of your dart to (not through) your apex point.
Gently hinge the bottom left piece of your pattern towards the CF of your bodice until you have removed the desired amount of fullness between the left and right sides of line #1 (i.e. if you have an A cup bra size, you would hinge your pattern inwards by ½”.)
Finally, cut along line #4 and move that little bodice piece up until the hem of your bodice is even once again.
Tape together your cut edges.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your dart point.

Lengthen or Shorten the Bodice

To lengthen or shorten your Butano Button Up Bodice you will be adjusting Front (A) and Back (B) pieces. These pieces have lengthen/shorten lines to help guide you in this process.

To lengthen:

Cut along the lengthen/shorten line on Front (A)
Slide the hem of your bodice down the desired length making sure to keep your CF seams even with one another.
Tape a scrap of paper in place behind your new openings.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your front pattern.
Repeat these steps with Back (B).

To Shorten:

Cut along the lengthen/shorten line on Front (A)
Slide the hem of your bodice up the desired length making sure to keep your CF seams even with one another.
Tape along your cut edge, securing your bodice back together.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your front pattern.
Repeat these steps with Back (B).

You can use this same method to lengthen/ shorten your sleeves as well.

Narrow or Broad Shoulder Adjustment

To adjust your Butano Button Up’s shoulder width, you will need the Back Yoke (C) and Front (A) pattern pieces.

For a broad shoulder adjustment:

Draw two lines across the Back Yoke (C) shoulder piece:

Line #1: From roughly the center shoulder to ⅓ of the way down the armscye
Line #2: Perpendicular to the first line through the shoulder point

Cut along line #1 to (not through) the armscye. Then cut along line #2 to (not through) the shoulder point.
Slide the two cut pieces gently towards the left, giving yourself as much desired width as you require. Work with the little pieces to ensure that the top of the shoulder seam is even on both the left and right sides. Your triangles will overlap.
Tape a scrap of paper in place behind your new openings.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your pattern.
Repeat these same steps on the opposite side of Back Yoke (C) as well as Front (A) at the shoulder.

For a narrow shoulder adjustment:

Draw two lines across the Back Yoke (C) shoulder piece:

Line #1: From roughly the center shoulder to ⅓ of the way down the armscye
Line #2: Perpendicular to the first line through the shoulder point

Cut along line #1 to (not through) the armscye. Then cut along line #2 to (not through) the shoulder point.
Slide the two cut pieces gently towards the CB of your pattern piece, removing as much of the width as you require. Work with the little pieces to ensure that the top of the shoulder seam is even. Your triangles will fan out slightly as you move your pieces towards the CB.
Tape a scrap of paper in place behind your new openings.
Smooth out your seams and retrace your pattern.
Repeat these same steps on the opposite side of Back Yoke (C) as well as Front (A) at the shoulder.